Knight-Ridder Financial News June 12, 1996



It's Every Man For Himself in the Cosmetic Biz.Henry Kissinger Rolls Up His Sleeves and Slaps On Some Blusher.




Pardon me for being forward, madam or sir, but you are certainly looking particularly lovely today. The glow of your skin. The sheen of your coiffure. Let me guess. You've just used your personal ju-jitsu to close that big merger deal and your 200% annual performance bonus is in the bag. No? Then it must be your Estee Lauder Time Release Moisturizer with BioMineral Water, or do you prefer Visibly Revitalizing Solution from Lancome.

Well, no matter. In business today, it's not how well you do, but how well you look. And as I believe I've mentioned, you look fabulous.

If this kind of talk from a business man strikes you as somewhat unusual, get used to it. Obsessing about one's appearance is becoming such a manly pre-occupation that ESPN is considering moving the subject of Dick Vitale's commentary from basketball to bronzers. As a recent article in The New York Times points out, businessmen are lining up like lemmings to let plastic surgeons trim, tuck, lift and implant, whatever it takes to make them look less like middle-aged cannon fodder and more like the dewy ingenues that upper management prefers.

And speaking of trends -- which I believe I can handle in an executive summary three words long, "Ice Pink and Platinum" -- "Does he or doesn't he?" may soon become the standard opening question for CEOs at stockholders meetings these days.(You can ask, but don't expect an answer. Most executives would rather admit to using heroin than Grecian Formula.)

If you wonder why the nation's focus has shifted from the Gross National Product to the products of Cover Girl and Maybelline, one answer may be found in the latest press release from Revlon, Inc. Not content with expanding their stable of cover girls to Cindy Crawford and Melanie Griffith, the cosmetic giant has now added to their Board of Directors corporate spokesmodel Henry Kissinger.

If you're the sort of stone age type who still washes with Lava Soap and brushes with baking soda, you might think that the only one to benefit from the Kissinger-Revlon combination is the master diplomat himself who will now get a chance to hang around with Cindy and Melanie, trading anecdotes about Zhou Enlai and Anwar el-Sedat for make-up secrets.

The truth is, with Kissinger on the Board, Revlon will really be able to turn up the competitive juice. The fall of Allende, the Brezhnev Summits, these are child's play compared to the battles going on between Revlon and its competitors in the cosmetic aisles. And when it comes to world domination, who is a better negotiator than Kissinger. By the time he's finished, China will be dismantling the Great Wall stone by stone and shipping it for reassembly in the back yard of Revlon's money man, Ron Perelman. They will, that is, if they ever expect to see Moon Drops Lipstick or ColorStay Lashcover in their communal stores.

Naturally, the other cosmetic companies will not sit still during Kissinger's ascendancy. Word on the street is that the Avon Ladies will soon become a tad more aggressive in their selling style once Robert De Niro and Joe Pesci join the Board. The manufacturers of Clinque are expecting to increase their sales, too, if the deal works out for General Colin Powell to take command. After all, Revlon can suggest we try a kicky new mascara, but refusing a direct order is a court martial offense.

Personally, I'm delighted to see American industry get serious in its quest to give the executive suite a make-over. I say -- if a middle-manager has only one life to live, let him live it as a blonde. You don't see anyone trying to downsize Uma Thurman, do you?

Frankly, there's so little we can do to change the world that putting on a pretty face may just be our best hope. It can cost a pretty penny, but maybe if we all looked like we just stepped out of the pages of "Vogue", office life would improve.

Doctor Kissinger, the sales meeting starts in five minutes. Be a pal. Lend me your blusher.